BIG Barakholka Market

Barakholka Market, on the outskirts of Almaty, is hard to describe. Actually, easy to describe, impossible to imagine, unless you've visited. The place is a low rent, flea market type of rat maze that stretches for dozens of blocks, mostly with vendors overflowing their shipping container shops. Kind of like this place in neighboring Kyrgyzstan.

Oof. A typical aisle of stuff. Looks like we're in the toy section. Stay together!

The shipping container architecture is no novelty. The ready made rooms are used both for store display and stacked storage. Checking inventory. "I think it's behind the other box." Best of luck.

This guy will sell you art, as long as you want a monumental theme.

Barakholka is so big, vendors specialize in certain product lines and also group themselves in the same areas. Get stuck. A tape store in tape row. Holiday decorations vendor.

Store selling big stuffed animals. Open on a slow day, room to spread out.

Sometimes you can only afford half a container and your shop is a tiny cave. Stock it well. Mannequin, looking aloof, no matter the location.

Another day, another sea of boxes has arrived. The modern Silk Road, still China supplied.

G'Day From Australia, Mate

That's right, Sarah and James have started their next Foreign Service tour and they've landed in Canberra, the cute, small town national capital of Australia. They reckon it's going to be a great place to live for the next three years.

Where are they living? What does it look like? Glad you asked. Canberra is one of those planned, green, efficient cities that some countries create specifically to be their federal capital. Looking at you, Brasília.

Let's start with the basics, the house and neighborhood. Here's their cute house. Except it's not their house. You know the drill: no giving up your location to the enemy. So, it's not their house. But it could be. Similar. Except, not.

Residential areas of Canberra are classic suburban. Elliot with ET could fly by on a bicycle. Subdivisions have friendly names, apartment buildings.

Oh, yea, a bunch of these things. Go left!

Planned can be good. Planned means room for green spaces, bike paths, nature. Don't forget to recycle. And compost. And rubbish. Check out the grass. It's astroturf. Canberra borders the outback and tilts to dry, especially during the summer. Why mow when you can vacuum?

That dry climate influences the architecture. Squint and you're in Palm Springs, California.

Going past astroturf and embracing rocks and 80s modern style. Proclaiming the style and edict of low density living. Enjoy yourself, now follow the rules.

Breaking the rules. A little artistic expression and spirit, peeking out from a bridge underpass. Spray it!

Gazing At Almaty's Many Murals And Mosaics

The Soviets commissioned many murals and mosaics in Almaty and the Kazakhs have continued that tradition. You've got apartment facade blank spaces to fill, museums to promote, culture, propaganda messages to spread. Gotta get the big statements out there.

Heroic battles and fighting for a lady are timeless themes. Detail of a mosaic on the front entrance facade of the Almaty Hotel. Don't tickle the horse.

Have good hobbies. And striped socks. And always have the symbol of Almaty, apples, nearby. Rock it. A mashup of a tribute to the Soviet space program at Baikonur and Van Gogh's trippy Starry Night painting. Can you hear me, Major Tom?

Too hip to understand. Retro cassettes, long legged camel, just a whole bunch of Pure Joy and Fun.

Traditional tropes. Impressive, high relief frieze on the side of a movie theater. The theme is 50 years of the Soviet Union. A more recent mural, depicting the joys of motherhood. And serving up your eensy newborn in a shallow bowl.

Colorful evolution. The entrance to the Biological museum has a great mosaic, a fantastical look at the progress of man and the universe.

Go out and do sport. Soviet graphics of athletes competing, nicely abstracted. The mosaic was deteriorating on an apartment building and concerned folks had it removed, restored and relocated near Almaty's famous mountainside skating rink. "Can I interest you in some earrings?" Detail from a mosaic at the top of Kok Tobe.

Another mosaic at the Almaty Hotel. The whole, grand, local history is depicted, from Silk Road era yurts and camel caravans to the big, modern city. A nice journey.

Hanging At Dinmukhamed Kunaev's House In Almaty

Ok, it's just an apartment. The former First Secretary, the leader of Kazakhstan for two or so decades, lived among the people, a common man thrust into a Soviet leadership position. Communism, modest men in charge.

Exterior view. It's a snazzy example of swanky, Soviet style Art Moderne.

Hello. Maybe not so common. Do something important and they put your image on a big vase. Front entry hall. Political presents fill the display cases. Look closely and you'll see a croc from Castro. Which was his standard gift. Castro handed them out like cigars to all the leaders he met.

Dining room. There might be more china in the cabinets than in China.

Kitchen. His and hers (his and his?) refrigerators. Getting personal, the toiletry kit. Pink soap, no one is going to ask.

Desk area of Kunaev's office. Big boom box, extra long stereo, reel to reel machine. The leader liked his tunes.

Visiting The Dinmukhamed Kunaev House Museum In Almaty

Dinmukhamed Kunaev was the head of Kazakhstan for two stints between 1960 and 1986. Otherwise known as the First Secretary. Think of him as a governor of a major state. Under his watch, Kazakhstan developed economically with mining and agriculture and Kunaev supervised the development of many of the iconic, Soviet era modern buildings that are now landmarks. Or torn down and forgotten. Such is fickle history.

Museum entrance. The exhibition space is actually in a building near his apartment.

Party identification card. State issue. A display about the Soviet space program, which is still based in Kazakhstan.

Hobbies. A bit aggressive.

The party likes to give awards to the big comrades. Medals, coins, books, whatever the souvenir shop is minting that month.

Action pose, in the waxy flesh. "What five year plan can I help you with?"  

Animal Portraits At the Biological Museum At Al-Farabi Kazakh National University In Almaty

It's a great opportunity for some introspective, almost dreamy, stuffed animal portraits when the animals are displayed in cases with no environment. Time to capture some isolated action, some emotions.