Desolation At Angkor

So many tourists, tour groups, vendors, vans, parking lots, moto taxis. Depending on which temple you visit, it can feel like Times Square during New Year's. With a little planning, it's possible to leave the modern world behind. Time of day, temple visited, angle chosen. Suddenly Angkor can look almost the way it did 800 years ago.

Entrance to Angkor Wat in the late afternoon.

Neak Pean. Chau Say Tevoda in the morning.

Another view of Chau Say Tevoda.

Two views of Ta Keo.

Back to Angkor Wat for dawn.

Thommanon Temple At Siem Reap

Thommanon is half of a pair of Hindu temples that mirror each other at Siem Reap, with Chau Say Tevoda sitting just across the road. They're not mirrors in design as Thommanon temple has more of a central, main design and Chau Say Tevoda is more a group of smaller structures. Quiz later!

Thommanon layout.

Two views of the central tower.

Looking east. Remember, quiz later.

Doorway and altar details.


A view of the main tower and central temple building.

Tiny Ta Som

Well, tiny compared to Angkor Wat or Preah Khan. Let's say beautifully scaled and exquisitely detailed. Wandering Ta Som is a nice respite from being overwhelmed at the other main temples, both in size and tourist count. It's nice to have a few rocks to one's self.

Entrance gate.

One of many lovely sandstone figures. They've left sections of the complex unrestored.

Doorway, flanked by more figures.

Yes, those lovely figures, looking good against a nice buildup of green patina. Selfie time in front of a fig tree gate. 

Beyond the temple, one of the iconic wall gates with the signature Avalokiteśvara head.

The Complexity Of Preah Khan

Preah Khan is a major temple at Angkor, its own complex complex, with moats, outer walls, temples, sanctuaries and various architectural styles. It's a good temple to visit if you want to cram a lot of Angkor experience into one location.

One of several entrance temples.

The classic tourist gaze. Plenty of patina to be found, especially nice against a sandstone wall with a setting sun glare.

The most unusual structure at Preah Khan and all of Angkor: a two-story, columned building, looking more Greek than Khmer.

More patina, sun and fine stone carving. Another unusual column sighting, this time red and square.

A nod to the jungle setting, trees growing from the ruins.

More Portraits At Angkor

A trip to the temples isn't complete without getting distracted by the wide variety of people wandering past. Here's another handful of portraits from Angkor.

Monk and selfie stick.

French couple.

Salesgirls and South American couple.

Security Guard.

Haitian student.

Tromping Through Ta Keo

Ta Keo temple at Siem Reap is a presence, a large-tiered stone cake that's unfinished at the top. Since it's between two of Angkor's most famous locations, plenty of tourists make the quick stop and take the climb to the top.

Double parked at the temple.

Looking like a stone aircraft carrier. An understated altar beside a set of stairs.

Between terraces.

The top sanctuary, unfinished. The starkness of the blunt stone is out of place at Angkor. That's better, a wall, full of carved details.

Mysterious vista from the top tier.

The Simple Symmetry Of Prasat Kravan

Five brick towers, in a simple line, looking a little like a tasting flight of beers one might order in a hip restaurant. At Angkor in Siem Reap, such a temple flight exists. Behold, Prasat Kravan.

The central tower is the most restored.

The brickwork is impressive, almost colonial in its detail. Inside one of the towers, an altar.

The front of the temple.

East Mebon Temple At Siem Reap

East Mebon is interesting for its commanding set of towers and a couple of nice animal carvings. And it used to be in a big reservoir, only accessible by boat. Beats trudging.

Presence felt. A classic, symmetrical layout of four towers surrounding a main tower. Nice brick work.

Animal species #1, a couple of fat-ass lions, guarding the entrance. Heading in.

Line up the brick sandstone towers in your shot correctly and infinity starts to happen.

In the distance, animal species #2, a guarding elephant. Once more to the tower.

Getting wide at the corner of a temple tier, staring down one of the elephants.