Nighttime Aarti Ceremony In Varanasi

One of the not-to-be-missed events in Varanasi is a lovely nighttime ceremony at the Dasashwamedh Ghat. The beautiful show is every night at sunset: a half dozen or so holy men making a prayer through song and show to the river Ganges.

There's a real patina to the ceremony, pots swinging and smoking, costumes and singing. It's impressive and the crowds come out to see the spectacle.

Ladies and gentlemen, the show....

The ghat is packed, both on the steps and on boats in the water.

A particularly moved spectator.

Tacky tourists and someone more at home, ready to place a pooja in the Ganges.

One of the performers. More crowds, but room for a sleeping dog.

Another audience angle.

Meanwhile, other things are happening at night in Varanasi. A flower seller with a mysterious figure in an entranceway. Ceremonial guards at a wedding reception banquet.

Portraits Of Varanasi

James, continuing a portrait project he started at the Kumbh Mela (see the portfolio here and here), took a handful of solo photographs in Varanasi. Here are the results.

Boat captain.

Man at the funeral ghat.

Bather and man changing.

Sadhu.

Tourist.

Time To Hop The School Bus In Varanasi

What's the equivalent of those ubiquitous yellow school buses back in the United States? In Varanasi, it's a little wagon-like contraption married to a bicycle. The mini hauler is so cute, at least to everyone except the poor guy who has to power the thing.

Who's going to Central Academy?

An empty "bus," ready for a load of eager students. There they are, all coordinated in their finest plaid pants and green blazers. You'd think they all just won golf's Masters tournament.

So cute!

Out the bus goes, being walked instead of pedaled. The boys don't seem to mind, at least they've got drinks.

An ode to Robert Frank.

Laundry Day (Everyday) In Varanasi

The Ganges River in Varanasi can clean everything. Bring your soul, your beliefs, bathe, cleanse and be blessed. Then get back to the mundane and clean your clothes.

These three guys are paid laundry workers. A stone, some water and soap, and you're in business. You provide the shoulder grease.

A woman hanging saris. On second thought, will my clothes be cleaner or dirtier?

More saris laid out to dry, creating a staircase rainbow. Beautiful!

The full array of laundry drying. Sheets, saris, jeans, no wonder the man in the center is taking a break. Two women being their own clothesline.

Portrait of the laundry man.

The Murals Of Varanasi

When you're in Varanasi, you're busy thinking about the ghats, bathing, the mighty Ganges river. It turns out a bunch of other folks have been busy thinking about painting murals. The fine artwork is spread throughout the ghats, some themes are religious, some are focused on commerce. The murals add a nice layer to the riverside experience.

This wall is religious-themed, showing tales of Krishna in the center, flanked by a couple of famous Babas. Gene Simmons' brother on the left?

Animal, vegetable or mineral? On the left, a monkey showing up the silly humans? Behold the rare and lovely lettuce elephant!
Signs advertising various classes. Maybe speaking to the laundry class using the ghats? Time to better your life?

Here's Krishna, doing what the Sadhus taught him - enjoying cannabis. Eye know, wild?

Holy cow, flying around Earth, powered by....flatulence? Nice touch to have one of them circle a section of exposed brick.

Murals don't stay around forever. Looks like rabbit is getting forced into history.

Boating Along The Ganga In Varanasi

Maybe after taking the customary bath from one of the ghats in Varanasi you want to experience the holy waters of the Ganga river another way. Time to hop a boat for a little tour.

Boats are plentiful, moored every block or so along the ghat steps.

Life goes on between the boats: finding a private place to bathe or a little room to hang laundry.

Don't think that once you're on the water you're immune from the hard sell. This pesky vendor will come to you with all sorts of snacks and souvenirs.

A lazy moment on the river. The opposite shore is reachable and has been left undeveloped.

You build a boat with what you have. In this case, the exterior shell is covered with old sheets of metal that look like old airplane sections.

Into The Mist At Varanasi

You have to work for your good light and memorable experience. Up at 5 am, head down to the ghats in Varanasi, and hire a boat to get you out on the Ganges, so you can experience the misty morning and beautiful sunrise.

Don't worry about being alone on the river, it's India. People are bathing at all hours. The early Hindu gets the blessing?

Setting a lighted pooja and a family bathing in the heavy mist.

The light is just starting to emerge, but the crowds have already gathered.

Our captain. One ghat you can guarantee isn't sleeping: the funeral ghat. The smoke is from the several active pyres.

The city, coming through as the mist starts to dissipate.