Seeing Silk In Uzbekistan

The textiles in Uzbekistan are amazing, especially the swatches made from silk. The place to go for silk is the town of Margilan and the factory to see it being produced is Yodgorlik. They do it old Silk Road school, from worm to wear.

Beautiful times on the weaving floor (apologies to Skip James), where it all comes together.

First, the source material. Then, into boiling water for a delicate thread unwinding from the cocoons. She knows what's she's doing.

Next, the raw threads are lined up, time to tie one - many - on in order to set a classic Ikat pattern.

A couple of examples from the looms of swatch patterns being put together. Wild stuff.

Exit through the impressive gift shop, a kaleidoscope of tempting patterns to select.

State Museum of the Armed Forces of Uzbekistan

The title of this blog post is the official title of the defense museum. How about Museum of the Turkestan Military District of the Soviet Armed Forces, the museum name during Soviet times? Regardless of its name, the place is dedicated to all things military conquest, ancient and recent.

Imposing building in the International Soviet style. Patriotic statue, Oath to the Motherland out front.

Imposing portraits inside, both as traditional painting and unique vase. Man, to get yourself put on a vase, you must have been big.

Diorama of a WWII scene. When in doubt, bandage it.

The best pieces in the museum are humble, everyday documents, equipment, giving a real sense of history. Back to the bigwigs, dripping with medals.

Reaching back to depict a battle during the height of the Silk Road era, a mosh pit of spears and lovely, bright textiles. You gotta look good for the goring.

The Norbutabiy Mosque And Nearby Cemetery In Kokand

One of the old highlights of Kokand is the impressive Norbutabiy Mosque and the crammed graveyard next to it. The mosque was built in the 18th century and its Madrassah is the largest in Kokand. Style-wise, the building follows traditional, Silk Road-era Islamic architecture, all tan stone with blue tile highlights.

Men only. Service letting out.

Classic looks, an intimate prayer area and an iconic dome.

The imposing facade is a bit of a ruse. While housing a mosque, services are held outside, in a courtyard beyond the front building.

Right next to the mosque is an expansive cemetery, full of elaborate tomb mounds and bigger graves. That's the Modari Khan Mausoleum in the center.

Painted ceilings and etched photographs are some of the features found around the site.

In Khan's tomb, impressive tile work with subtle restoration. Clear enough to notice, nice enough to enjoy the overall pattern.