The Gumbaz Synagogue In Samarkand

There's still a tiny Jewish community in Samarkand and a couple of synagogues are still open. The faithful are dwindling, having been persecuted by the Soviets and most families emigrated to Israel, once that country was established in 1948. About 150 Jews remain in Samarkand.

One of the temples, the Gumbaz Synagogue, is located down a small street in the old section of Samarkand. Look for some iconic Judaica symbols on a wall.

Before heading into the synagogue, there's a courtyard with pics and info on the founder of the place and other rabbis. Nice Star of David on the ceiling.

The grand synagogue, looking lovely with a blue dome, carved woodwork, dripping legit atmosphere.

A study room with an old stove heater. Cozy. A little drain bling. The downspout pipes are capped with tin catches, complete with cutout Jewish stars and menorahs. P*mp my gutter?

A look inside the holy ark, home to the Torah and religious texts. It must be an ancient, secret system of organizing the books.

The Mighty Bibi Khanym Mosque In Samarkand

Note to self :do not let your architect kiss you on the cheek, especially if your husband is an iron-fisted ruler of Central Asia. So the story goes. Bibi Khanym, wife of ruler Timur, wanted to surprise hubby when he got back from pillaging. Build the biggest mosque in the world, build it quick. Let the architect kiss me if it gets the work done.

Of course, Timur finds out, architect is killed, wife punished. Whatever, what's left behind is remnants of a grand mosque.

Imposing entrance. The place was reduced to rubble by an 1897 earthquake, heavily rebuilt and restored by the Soviets.

Two identical side mosques flank the main one. A nice contrast of the play of light and shade.

Domed ceiling of one of the side mosques.

A giant stone koran sits in the middle of the courtyard. Heavy reading. The main mosque is as equally imposing as the entrance. All of the covered porticoes surrounding the mosques are gone, leaving beautiful desolation behind.

Details Of Samarkand, Part One

Sure, the Registan registers on the memory and awe scale. How about some more humble things?

Speaking of Registan, there's part of it in the background. Alas, the mighty parking lot may be modern civilization's lasting contribution to culture.

King cotton for sale, the major crop in Uzbekistan. Monochrome bike scene with a splash of bags of color.

Islam Karimov, the first president of independent Uzbekistan. Looming.

Wardrobe department for Silk Road wear for photo ops at a monument. Classic modern USSR architecture.

In a park, a little fantasy flora, trying to blend. More a salad bowl? 

Picturing Everyone At The Registan

Photo op! Insta-story! Tik Tok it! It's one thing to see the famous Silk Road landmark, the Registan. Sure, take it in, walk around the madrasas, go through the courtyards, gaze at the wonder. Ho hum. If you don't have pics of yourself there, what's the point?

"We were here!" "Group tour memory!" The place is so big, no need to squeeze the crowd to get everything in the frame.

The location is prime real estate for wedding photographs. The default seems to be the bride 100% finished, the groom mostly there and the rest of the party rolled out of bed.

Bringing the Silk Road fantasy alive. Also popular, couples dressed up in Timur-era duds, looking like they just hopped off their yak for a snap.

Getting furry with it. More ancient role play: guys in big hats. Another day, another wedding party.

Global tourists, frequently asked by a local person to pose with them. "Not only did I see the Registan, I also saw some Americans!" Happy to oblige, diplomacy through landmarks.

Dazzling Details Of The Registan

While the scale of the Registan's three madrasas is impressive, it's the intricate tile work and details that blow the mind. Icing on the cakes.

A view of one of the courtyards, where the blue mosaic tile work is in full bloom on all the angles.

Moving in for a closer look. You get borders, column work, flower mosaics, all sorts of wonders. A window can't just be a window. Lattice with tile, please. Oh boy. One of the madrasas has a mosque and the interior of that mosque is pure blue and gold fantasia.

Getting 3D. An alcove, of course tile covered, also features a stalactite pattern. More is more is great! Why stop at the madrasas? Exterior walls also get tile bling.

Back inside, a nice re-creation of the man responsible for the oldest madrasa, astronomer Mirzo Ulugbek, sporting his fancy chapan.

The Registan In Samararkand

Welcome to the Taj Mahal of Uzbekistan, the heavy of the Silk Road, certainly one of the ancient wonders of the world. Or is the Taj Mahal the Registan of India? The monument is that impressive.

At pre-dawn, heavy with anticipation.

Light emerges and so do the Babushkas who work there.

Speechless.

What's most amazing? The scale? The design? The tile work? The symmetry? The why?

Night falls and the light show comes alive. Like a giant piece of candy.

The Registan is the main public square for old Samarkand and is surrounded by three madrasas, Islamic schools. The buildings date from about 1420 to 1660. Oodles of info is on the interwebs if you are curious for further detail.

Museum Of Victims Of Political Repression In Tashkent

Russia and later, the Soviet Union, occupied Uzbekistan from the mid 1800s up until the dissolution of the USSR and Uzbekistan gaining independence in 1991. It wasn't all vodka and roses.

Uzbekistan opened the repression museum (its exact full formal name is the title of this blog post) in 2002. It's a memorial, a place of remembrance, a repository for artifacts from that unfortunate time period and also a look to the more positive future.

The snazzy building, within a park dedicated to remembrance.

Inside, miniatures to illustrate being forcibly relocated and hiding from authorities.

One of the galleries, a nod to Silk Road era design.

Objects of decadence, depending on your view. A fancy Soviet desk set with telephone and a confiscated phonograph player.

The future, progress through luxury real estate. A model of a major housing development in Tashkent.

Honey, I Bought Some Honey

Bees are big in Uzbekistan and Tashkent recently hosted an exhibition for all of its busy workers. We'll stop now, these puns sting.

Wear it if you've got it.

Honey by the bucketload. The convention was made up of dozens of small-time purveyors from all over Uzbekistan and neighboring countries. Sweet. Tools of the trade for sale, scrape up some soum to buy what you need.

They mean business. Ready to go big with your hive collection?

Something for everyone. Lots of books to help, once you've mastered Russian. Do bees speak Russian? International symbol of happy honey, Winnie the Pooh. Of course, he makes an appearance.

The vendors really do mean business. So much honey, all types, so many unknown mixtures. A sight for the eyes as well as a taste for the tongue. Dig in.