The Curious Chadra Hauli Tower House

Welcome to the summer residence of an eccentric merchant, built in about the early 19th century. That's right, before air conditioning. The merchant knew what he was doing, stacking breezy rooms ever higher to catch summer winds for cooling. Cool!

Stable and storage at ground level, open rooms up top.

A closer view of the stack, vertigo starting here. Also, built before elevators.

A view around back, looking a little like a sci-fi ant hill.

The budget was one room per floor. The lattice work on the porch side needs some replacement pieces.

Why the place was built, the lovely view and the chance for a nice breeze.

An Abandoned House Near Khiva

Houses don't last forever. You gotta keep them up. Painting, new roof, fresh kitchen. Sometimes you outlive the place and move on to something current. On the outskirts of Khiva sits a good example of a late Tsar/Khan style mashup house, now left for the elements to wear away.

Exterior, looking a little like a Santa Fe ranch house.

Silk Road era carved column detail. Inside, way past TLC stage. Nice detail of Russian baroque crown molding.

Living room with grand fireplace and a tiny water leak in the ceiling.

Silhouetted rooms with remnants of cupcake ceiling medallions.

Outside is also in bad shape. The pool/fountain sits empty, collecting leaves.

Carving It Up At Durasulboy Madrasah In Khiva

The old Khiva architectural gems aren't going to restore themselves. Take the small, humble, plain Durasulboy madrasa. It's not even open. The place is a workshop for carved wood columns. Peek inside and get an idea about the process of supplying authentic details all around the old city, Itchan Kala.

Madrasa exterior, fitting in.

Interior, tiny, as neighboring madrasas go. We'll call it exclusive. Column staging area.

Wait, didn't we just see those columns somewhere else?

Oh boy. Columns everywhere, stacked up like Peloton bikes, post-pandemic.

Getting to the source, the master carver. Still using the same techniques, save for an occasional power tool.

The Plain And Fancy Nurullaboy Palace

Just outside Khiva's walled old city, the Itchan Kala, sits the expansive Nurullaboy palace. It's not that old, only started by Muhammad Rakhimkhan in 1906. He had visited Russia and brought back many of the Tsar era architectural touches he liked.

The palace covers a bit of ground, many rooms, buildings, courtyards. Restoration work has recently been completed, leaving the structures a bit ahead of the needed set dressing.

More porticos, big on carved wood columns, not much else.

Ba-Ba-Bling! Now we're talking high Tsar. One of the restored buildings is amazingly rich and lovingly restored to over the top glory. The circular ballroom.

Another room, a riot of color. These big things are heaters. Why hide them if you can tile them?

A bedroom, no need to hang a picture for visual interest. 

Getting Musical At Khiva's Qozi Kalon Madrasah

Qozi Kalon Madrasah is a relative baby in the old city in the Itchan Kala section of Khiva. It was built in 1905 by Salim Ahun, the local chief judge. Nice digs. The madrasa is now a museum, dedicated to all things musical. 

The exterior, not straying from the classic style of older madrasas.

Inner courtyard, a bit humble. But neat! The first hint at the theme of the museum: some instruments.

OK, now we're getting down. Part of the band, looking a bit like Fleetwood Mac's Lindsey Buckingham, circa 1975. Look it up.

A couple of party paintings, folksy and fancy. Hey, music binds the culture, no matter the class, time.

Back to our madrasa house band, more Buckinghams.

Visiting The Kunya Ark Palace In Khiva

The Kunya Ark Palace complex was built in 1686 by Arangan Khan. It's a big place, full of open courtyards, impressive tile work, observation areas to gaze across the old city of Khiva, see the sites of the Itchan Kala.

A palace needs protection, a big wall with an imposing gate entrance. "Can I get a bench to rest for a minute?" Sure.

Just inside the fortified walls, archeological digging taking place with the stumpy Kalta Minor minaret in the background. Ooh, nice portico in an inner courtyard, covered with blue tile work.

Another view of the portico, all tucked in with carved wood columns. Picture ready. Some Khan TV show was filming while Sarah and James visited.

Throne room, speaking its bling, loud and clear. Another part of the complex has been renovated, re-purposed for a museum with artifacts.

Climbing to a rooftop observation area brings a reward: a nice view of the old city.

Wardrobe And Weaponry At Muhammad Rakhimkhan II Madrasa

Another madrasa, another themed museum. This time, it's all about the splendor of the Khivan Khanate, all warrior umph and dressed, equipped appropriately.

Exterior view, one of the more impressive facades among the many madrasas in the old city, Itchan Kala.

Khanwear. Gotta have a good beard, sumptuous robe and some medals. Hey, you earned it.

Museum gallery, full of vase booty.

Another case, another example of a strong Khan. 

Add to your outfit with a strong weapon.

The Medical Museum Inside The Shergazi Khan Madrasa

There are so many identical looking madrasas in the Itchan Kala, old part of Khiva, that the authorities have needed to create theme museums to get tourists to visit the various landmarks. Shergazi Khan has a museum that concentrates on the history of local medicine.

A typical gallery at the madrasa.

A diorama of early treatment. "Here, suck on this horn three times a day and come back and see me in a week." Or maybe a sand bath.

Don't worry about over-heating, a couple of kids have been assigned to monitor you.

Looking sick. Writing sick.

Another bedside consultation. At least the textiles look great.