Statues Around Gallipoli

Memorial military graveyards seem also to have inspiring statues. On Gallipoli, there's no shortage of bronze beauties.

Tribute to the everyday Ottoman soldier, at the 57th infantry regiment cemetery.

Bleak death at the trenches. A large re-creation in the town of Eceabat. War hero and future first president of Turkey, Mustafa Kemal Ataturk. At Canterbury Knob.

Heavy metal. The symbol of Ottoman might and heroics, Corporal Seyit. He hauled heavy artillery shells into infamy.

Big props to the Ottomans from Governor General Lord Casey from Australia. So says the quote under the statue. Another cemetery, another ode to soldier heroics. At the 26th regiment cemetery.

Back to our hero, Corporal Seyit. If you need your artillery shell carried somewhere, he is your he-man.

Çanakkale Epic Promotion Centre

The main museum related to the Gallipoli campaign goes by the curious name, Çanakkale Epic Promotion Centre. It's a nice, little museum, basically displays of uniforms, some diorama re-creations. The war comes alive, sort of.

Striking exterior.

Inside, uniforms and nervous expressions. "They were just kids!"

Mano a mano in a big diorama throw down. Out of the trenches and leading with bayonets.

Back down in the trenches, quiet moments of ammo supplies and a letter from home.

Diorama of a Turkish symbol. It's he-man, Corporal Seyit. He's famous for lugging super heavy artillery shells in the Ottoman defense on March 18, 1915. Looks tough. And inspiring.

Visiting Gallipoli Cemeteries

The Gallipoli Campaign was a military battle between British Allied forces and Turkish Ottoman forces during WWI. The British were trying to take Gallipoli, the area of the Dardanelles strait that would help them secure a safe route for ships to the Black sea. 

The campaign failed and Gallipoli now symbolizes significant historical moments for several countries. For the British, the limits to their imperial power. For the Turks, a path to independence and a modern Turkish state. For Australia and New Zealand, part of the British alliance, a stinging defeat over blind optimism yet a reality that they are their own countries, not just British subjects. The history is long and still much remembered.

The human cost was great. Some 300,000 casualties, almost 60,000 dead. Cemeteries dot the landscape and a pilgrimage there is similar to a visit to Normandy or Gettysburg. It's a sobering trip.

A British cemetery, with a view of the water.

Two views of Lone Pine, the most famous ANZAC (Australia, New Zealand Army Corps) cemetery.

One of the major Ottoman cemeteries, for the 57th infantry regiment.

Crescent on a Turkish grave. Major marble friezes with long quotes appear sporadically.

Cut down quickly. Graves at the beach, now known as ANZAC cove.

Restoring Gur-i Amir

You think those Silk Road treasures just stay all bling-y by themselves? Ask the Soviet archeologists, who took buildings in a state of ruin and "restored" the complexes to their imagined glory. Now, Uzbekistan is busy keeping up the condition of perfection.

Time for a little face lift at Gur-i Amir. Scaffolding goes up, old tiles come down.

Signs of distress. Time for a patch. Molds are good for making panels of carvings or multiple tiles.

No need to worry about the inside, the bling is already the thing!

Poured panels, lined up for drying. Piles of tiles. Some tiles may be reused; some tiles are new.

Scaffolding off, facelift finished, the place now shines (again).

Back To Shah-i Zinda

One of the nice things about being posted in a country with certain treasures is that you can go visit them multiple times. Why look at a masterpiece once?

Shah-i Zinda in Samarkand is a masterpiece. A necropolis, a collection of small mausoleums, most of the buildings covered in a riot of blue tile. Gaze and then gaze again.

The complex is within a large cemetery. Most people only see Shah-i Zinda and never venture out for other views. Go repeatedly, go find other angles.

The big reveal. A hint of color when heading up the entrance stairs. Fun with perspective. A different view from the neighboring cemetery, a green lawn frames well at the correct angle.

Timing things right is also a benefit of a repeat visit. Here's a view of the three mausoleums that make up the back section of Shah-i Zinda, photographed at the minute the sun creates no shadow between the buildings.

Dome views.

A quiet moment, a little duck behind the complex. 

Checking Out A Carpet Factory In Samarkand

There's nothing more iconic about being on the Silk Road than a fancy silk carpet. The place to go to see carpets being made and a good place for shopping is the Samarkand Bukhara Silk Carpet Factory. Big name, big business.

The loom room. A good job for women, a skill learned and heirloom carpets created.

How do they do it, hours, days, years crouched in front of the rig? By watching shows on their mobile phones. Clever.

A showroom.

Weaving details. A pattern guide and loose thread. Cutting, weaving tools, looking a little Silk Road medieval.

Another showroom. If they don't have it, you didn't want it. Pick color.

Shopping At The Siyob Bazaar, Part Two

More shopping at the big Siyob Bazaar.

You want eggs? You gotta face the egg lady.

Naswar, green chewing tobacco. Looks good. Tastes? Well...

A huge amount of cleaning supplies. And two blue buckets.

A variety of chekiches for sale. They're stamps used in baking non, to provide a flat, embossed center to the round bread. Metal versions are made from old gears. A vendor lunch. Grand.

Presentation is everything. Clever use of construction fence covering as lush stall background.

Shopping At The Siyob Bazaar, Part One

Every city in Uzbekistan has one central shopping market and the place to go in Samarkand is the big Siyob Bazaar. It's all there, from meat, vegetables, bread, clothing, and candy, to hardware and tobacco. If a house might use it, they sell it.

Overview. The bazaar is a mix of outdoor, covered stalls and indoor shops.

Babushkas, on the march. Better come with your best price. The iconic broom design in Uzbekistan.

Delivering watermelons.

Bread is big. Round loaves are called non. Sometimes decorated for special occasions, mostly hot and fresh and bought in bulk for today's meals. Nice recycled bag.

Corn is ready.