The Smokey House Of Sampoerna

Sampoerna is a major kretek cigarette manufacturer, founded and based in Surabaya, Indonesia. Kretek cigarettes are a local taste, hand rolled and mixed with cloves. In 1932, the Sampoerna family took over an old orphanage built in 1862 in the Dutch colonial style and turned it into their own factory. Today the factory is closed and the old compound has been turned into a museum to the business.

Regal front entrance.

Inside, typical monuments to hard work and family. A re-creation of a humble stall from the dry goods peddler trade, practiced by the owner before getting into the tobacco business. Years later, the owner, Liem Seeng Tee, and wife getting the royal portrait treatment.

Matchbox high art, a nice collection of little drawings found on old boxes.

The secret ingredient, cloves. Sampoerna has grown into a major tobacco company, now mostly owned by Philip Morris. You know you've arrived when you have your own band and they get to travel to the United States to play the Rose Bowl.

Package printing, using an old German press.

Stacks of iconic labels. So iconic, why not turn them into wallpaper for the museum bathroom?

Present day reality, an empty pack, gruesome warning, smashed on the street.

Failing To Find Reality At The Surabaya Zoo

Zoos, by their definition, aren't a true reality for their captive residents. Animals in cages, species found continents apart now living next to each other. Surabaya has a decent zoo, a meandering property full of enclosures that try to look natural.

Morning feeding at the elephant enclosure, the painted background looking a little like a vintage Hollywood rear projection setup.

Part of a tiger. Flora, some real, some not.

Large rocky waterfall display for some sort of animal. Minus the creatures, water and real rocks.

Some real animals, cropped.

Nature, caged. An aviary.

Some Details Of Surabaya

Time to take a little wander, see what makes Surabaya unique.

Military statue of general Sudirman Kogartap, with Indonesian flag. To the point.

Fish stall woman, keeping the 'do in tact with a plastic bag coverup. Chinese office supply shop with vendor feet.

Lobby of an old hotel, now used mostly as mini offices.

Fun sculptures in the city. For some reason, a crocodile fighting a shark is Surabaya's main symbol. Another regional passion is bull racing. Best of luck in those endeavors.

Political mural. Check out the money, rat and hoax details. A mood sweeping the world?

A Chinese Muslim Mosque In Surabya, Indonesia

Indonesia is a Muslim country. Chinese generally practice Buddhism. Perhaps when you immigrate and stay for many generations, you adopt your new home country's religion. Just not its architecture.

The Cheng Hoo Chinese mosque in Surabaya, Indonesia. Muslim in practice, traditional Buddhist temple in style.

Prayer time. Women get the far end of the room.
Prepping for praying, removing shoes and washing up.

Temple, mosque details. Shoe storage and pagoda tiers.

Another Buddhist temple touch, a concrete boat scene and fish pond. A far cry from typical Muslim Moorish architecture style.

Murals At The Submarine Pasopati Museum

When you visit the Russian submarine Pasopati museum, don't miss the parade of folk art-like murals along the boundary wall that circles the area. There are more than a dozen scenes, telling somewhat random sea, Navy stories.

First up, let's go with a site plan of the place.

A slice of ancient maritime history and a more present look at naval power.

Highlighting healthcare, education and climbing buildings?

Time waits for no mural. Several of the works are now obscured by mini hawker shops. You gotta dig through the stock to find the art.

Have a seat and order a sub with your sub.

Russia's Pasopati Submarine

If you find yourself fighting for independence and you need, say, a submarine, hit up the Russians. Indonesia needed a sub, the Russians had a few of them floating around after WWII and they were looking to strengthen an alliance. Take my Pasopati, please.

Today the submarine is on proud dry dock display in Surabaya. Time to tour the big tube.

The Pasopati is painted and polished.

Inside, a warren of machinery and cables. Forward torpedo tubes and periscope area maze of wiring and gauges.

Labeling, Russian.

Interesting bunk contrast. On the left, the officers' sleep area. Looks rough. On the right, bunks for enlisted men. Looks rougher.

The submarine doesn't move until the big diesel starts turning. He gets his own, spacious room.

Dioramas At The November 10th Museum, Surabaya

Indonesia loves to tell its history through dioramas. Battles, meetings, unrest, rebellion, light up a box and throw some stuff in to impress the masses. The November 10th Museum commemorates the Battle of Surabaya, when, in November 1945, local forces fought British forces. The Indonesians lost that battle. The fighting was fierce and signaled to the world that colonizing Indonesia - as it was before WWII - would now be impossible. November 10th is Heroes day in Indonesia, to commemorate the start of their fight for independence.

Illustration of a rebel camp. Rifles propped up, some chit chat and a basket of rations.

Taking down the Dutch flag and replacing it with an Indonesian flag at the Yamato hotel. Protester.

Plotting and planning the Indonesian defense.

Impressions. Rebel Officer. Soldier, intently listening.

Naval maneuvers.